Khajuraho
By Lokesh
The best way to get here is via airplane (from Delhi, Mumbai and Varanasi) or via train (over night train which is prone to theft as TTE almost never visits here and hence is overcrowded). Also, there is option of sleeper buses which are of good quality and charge some Rs. 1000. Khajuraho bus station is about a km from Western group of temples and Railway station is about 8 km away.
What to see?
The biggest draw to Khajuraho is the temples which are dividedinto three groups- Western groups of temples (5), the most famous ones which you must visit. The Southern group of temples (3) which are missable if you have seen western temples as these are only miniature versions of them. The Eastern group of temples which are basically Jain temples and too are missable. In short, all you need to see is the western group of temples and thus try to stay close them them.You may stay at Yogi lodge (07686274158) for 250-300/day. It is neat, safe and has reasonably prized nice food as well. It is at a stone throw distance from western group of temples and right next to bike rent shop (Central India adventures) from where you can rent a discover/pulsar for 400-500/day. Name of contact person is Salman (9713486410)
You may hire an audio guide or a personal guide (bargain well…he would come to 400 easily). Alternatively, you may buy a book for 30-40 rupees inside the temple complex and read things by yourself. Keep atleast a couple of hours or maybe more to explore all the temples and you may want to visit twice to satisfy your curiosity. The tickets for Indians is just 40 so it doesn’t pinch. The light and sound show in the evening is below average. Watch the Hindi one, if you must, as the one in English doesn’t connect well with the essence. Also, if you watch the English one, then after the show hide in the bathroom on the way to the exit gate and come out after 10 minutes and start moving again towards the seats. This way you can watch the Hindi show for free!
Raneh Falls
This is a must visit. It is about 20km from Western group of temples. Rent a bike and use google maps. Know that it closes early on Wednesday (12 noon). At the entrance you will pay for bike and yourself. Do not hire a guide as it is not needed. Ride to the falls, though there won’t be much water but the view of the canyon are beautiful. There are shops for snacks and tea here. After the falls, ride towards Ken Ghariyal. On this route you will witness Neel Gai, Lemur, Deers and cows taking a stroll. While on your way, you will note a wall on to your right. Near that wall you will see a board that would read ‘nature trail’. Crossover to theother side of the wall on foot and then follow the trail. You will be greeted with the best views of the canyons, perfect for sitting in solitude as for photography. You may later go to Ken Ghariwal as well, though I did not see much there. In case you want a guide, hire Pritam Singh (9630987185)
In your free time, you may visit the Shiv temple right next to western group of temples. The elevated platform of the temple is also a nice point to watch Sunet. Also, right outside the temple, poor devotees play music and sing devotional songs which I really liked listening to and therefore tipped them generously.
Also, there are two ponds, one on either side of Western Group of temples. You may sit there in the late evening.
Where to eat
I love having Poha and the best I found was at a local shop named Subodh music center (it was earlier a music center) right opposite Bhopali fruit shop. You may eat Pineapple at Bhopali fruit shop if you like it.
Must eat Nizami Baigan at Guru Kripa restraint on main road
I loved the cheese and vegetable sandwich at the local tea stall right in front of the western group of temples in the parking area.
Do try the paranthas and sandwich and especially various lassis at Parantha corner, which too is pretty close to Subodh music center and western group of temples.
There is a wine and beer shop about half a km away from western group of temples